So that's not helpful...

"Tom McParland" (tommcparland) 01/07/2014 at 15:34 • Filed to: lightlopnik, mazda

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...I come out of work, start the car ('10 Mazda 3s 6MT) and the check engine light comes on. The motor did struggle to start this morning and nothing "felt" strange on the ride home. I saw that my antifreeze was a tad low so I topped it off. Could it be just the cold? If the light is still on tomorrow I might take it to AAMCO for a free scan. You guys have any thoughts?

Takuro Spirit > Tom McParland 01/07/2014 at 15:35

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My best guess: Thermostat.

Report back with the code and I'll run it for ya.

Tom McParland > Takuro Spirit 01/07/2014 at 15:36

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Is it possible the light will go off when it warms up?

themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles > Tom McParland 01/07/2014 at 15:37

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Let the engine idle up to operating temperature and drive for a few miles at speed and see if it stays. My jetta threw the oil light at me but the temperature is so cold and my drive is so short I think it was just mad at me. It's not ideal, but letting it warm up for 10 minutes before setting off seems to help it a ton.

Takuro Spirit > Tom McParland 01/07/2014 at 15:38

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Not likely. It sets a hard code. On older 3's a PCM reprogram was also necessary, but yours shouldn't apply.

dirtybird52 > Tom McParland 01/07/2014 at 15:38

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First off, no proper Jalop should be without a code scanner. You can snag a bluetooth one from Amazon/eBay for $20-30 that will sync to your smartphone and give you your codes, plus look up their meanings online.

And yeah, that stupid little light isn't at all useful. Hate those things. Definitely get the code read. Could be harmless, or could be serious. No real way to know without the code.

Tom McParland > themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles 01/07/2014 at 15:38

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Will try thanks

CalzoneGolem > Tom McParland 01/07/2014 at 15:39

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It is possible that it just "got confused" and nothing is wrong. This has happened with our Soul threw a throttle position code then was fine.

themanwithsauce - has as many vehicles as job titles > dirtybird52 01/07/2014 at 15:39

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check the gas cap!

Tom McParland > Takuro Spirit 01/07/2014 at 15:41

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Gotcha thanks...I'll check back with you.

505Turbeaux > Tom McParland 01/07/2014 at 15:43

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it shouldn't reset by itself. Like Takuro said it is likely to be either the t-stat itself, or it is going to spit a code back that says something about coolant not reaching temperature in a specified amount of time, which could be the CTS (temp sender) acting up.

PS9 > Tom McParland 01/07/2014 at 15:44

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Man, those lights are pure douche bag technology. Imagine this light as a person.

You: * starting up car*

MrDBag: "Something's wrong with your car."

You: "What? Er...what's wrong with it?"

MrDbag: "Uhh-ohh-noo..." * shrugs, cracks open beer*

You:"Then...how do you know somethings wrong with it?"

MrDbag: "I don't know. But I do know your shit's broke." * Throws 3/4 empty beer can into your backseat*

You: "I...I don't believe you..." * Actually does believe him, lets it eat him alive from the inside out*

oldirtybootz > Tom McParland 01/07/2014 at 15:49

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If I had to guess I would say it's for low voltage.

Tom McParland > oldirtybootz 01/07/2014 at 15:51

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So I should put the AC/DC CD in and that should fix it. :D

Takuro Spirit > dirtybird52 01/07/2014 at 15:52

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I paid less than $10 for mine. Comes in handy.

Zipppy, Mazdurp builder, Probeski owner and former ricerboy > Takuro Spirit 01/07/2014 at 15:56

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Got a cheap bluetooth one as well, works nicely with my phone.

Zoom > Tom McParland 01/07/2014 at 16:17

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Is it cold where you are? Misfire.

Ck your gas cap. If it's loose, tighten it and wait a day.

No worries, OBDII has a two stage lamp. Codes that will cause very rough running or severe drivability issues will cause the light to blink. ie 'secondary indicators' will trip the light, but hard sensor faults (full sensor failure) will cause the ligght to blink.

CAFIFTY > Takuro Spirit 01/07/2014 at 18:00

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Not true: The code will clear if the ECU there is no fault present for 4 consecutive trips (that have similar conditions rpm, starting temp, engine load, coolant temp, etc) without the fault present.

With this said. Check the code and report back. Also buy a code puller.

CAFIFTY > Zoom 01/07/2014 at 18:01

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Only P0300 (misfire) codes make the MIL light flash.

CAFIFTY > dirtybird52 01/07/2014 at 18:02

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Don't go too cheapo. Get one that can view freeze frame data and view ECU PIDs

Zoom > CAFIFTY 01/07/2014 at 18:10

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If it's a misfire, correct.

Many many other hard codes make the light flash. Full sensor failures mainly. Sensor voltage pegged or missing, voltage locked, etc.

TwoFortified > Tom McParland 01/07/2014 at 18:19

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Yep, high voltage done dirt cheap.

Takuro Spirit > CAFIFTY 01/07/2014 at 18:27

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YOLO

CAFIFTY > Takuro Spirit 01/07/2014 at 18:44

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I lol'ed hard

CAFIFTY > Zoom 01/07/2014 at 18:46

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Hmm maybe its not a universal thing. But Im pretty sure its only misfire codes flash the light but that's my experience with Ford's and GM

Zoom > CAFIFTY 01/07/2014 at 19:21

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'Multiple misfire' is certainly the most common. But a soft fault (some manufacturers used to call them secondary indicators, or anything that caused the computer to 'watch' if they strayed out of bounds intermittantly) will cause a steady light. Since a high percenatge of the time these soft faults will clear up, there is no need for a limp home status for the ECM. However, when a sensor fails fully, voltage spikes, disaappears, or stays too steady, a hard fault is set, the ECM goes to 'limp in' and the light will blink. Try unplugging any main EFI sensor, and if the car will start or run, after a few seconds a hard fault is set and you'll get a blinking MIL.

Mathias Rios > dirtybird52 01/07/2014 at 20:36

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Beat me to it.

Tom McParland > Takuro Spirit 01/08/2014 at 12:33

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So light stayed on and motor really struggled to turn over this morning, it also seemed to idle a bit high about 1500-1800 rpm. Here is a pick of the code. Dude at AAMCO said try opening the gas cap and retighten to see if it goes off in a day or two. Mazda power train warranty is 5yr 60k right?

Takuro Spirit > Tom McParland 01/08/2014 at 12:48

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It's a known issue, there's a TSB for it. Fuel tank pressure valve. Not sure if its covered by powertrain or not.

Link to TSB PDF

Tom McParland > Takuro Spirit 01/08/2014 at 12:55

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Well if the engine is under warranty and it is an engine issue should be covered...I'll call the dealer. Thanks for the help. :)

Tom McParland > Takuro Spirit 01/08/2014 at 13:04

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Oh one more question. I got a remote starter put in, will that effect warranty?

Takuro Spirit > Tom McParland 01/08/2014 at 13:08

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Depends. Mazda takes those on a case by case basis. If it is shown to cause an issue then yes, they could void it on whatever item is takes out. But if its a decent system and not all hacked into place it won't affect warranty on other components.

Tom McParland > Takuro Spirit 01/08/2014 at 13:21

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The remote starter shouldn't effect that code right? I just called the dealer told them the situation, they said they are not sure about powertrain coverage for that issue. I'm dropping the car off tomorrow so we will see.

Takuro Spirit > Tom McParland 01/08/2014 at 13:45

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Yeah it would have no affect. Powertrain usually covers the engine & internals, transmission, and driveline (inc wheel bearings!). Might not cover fuel and emissions components.

CAFIFTY > Tom McParland 01/09/2014 at 01:42

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its an emissions component, its covered for 120k miles per government requirements. And honestly not a big deal

Tom McParland > CAFIFTY 01/09/2014 at 06:00

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Cool hey you gotta link or something that I can read about that coverage?

CalzoneGolem > Tom McParland 01/09/2014 at 08:08

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All is going according to plan!

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > Tom McParland 01/09/2014 at 08:29

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Usually its not that long of time or distance unless its a California emissions model.

The rest of us plebes are on something closer to 8 years/80K miles on emissions components, and only for component defects.

I'll get the warranty booklet out of the car and check the details.

doodon2whls > Tom McParland 01/09/2014 at 08:34

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Yay !

Some emissions-related codes that trigger a MIL/CEL to illuminate can also 'reset' themselves after multiple successful 'trips'.

For example, if you throw a P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak), it can clear itself after multiple 'trips' without sensing a leak.

A 'trip' can be defined a couple different ways depending on the code, but usually requires a fully warmed engine, speed over XXmph, and key-on duration over XX minutes.

Jeff-God-of-Biscuits > Tom McParland 01/09/2014 at 08:49

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For about $50, you can get a bluetooth sender that plugs into your OBD connection as well as program called Torque. Fantastic tool. It will pull the codes for you, as well as allowing you see/monitor/record all the information that your car computer receives. Nice real time dashboard features as well.

Jeff-God-of-Biscuits > Tom McParland 01/09/2014 at 08:49

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And might I say... OH MY GOAWD I WANT THAT MAZDA!!! Thank you, that is all.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > Tom McParland 01/09/2014 at 09:02

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OK, so to start, the disclaimer: This is what is in the warranty booklet in my Mini. You may have something different in yours. Check with your dealer/manufacturer to verify your coverage, blah blah blah.

Anyway...

First, there are two emissions warranties: CARB and Federal. The CARB warranty is applicable to vehicles originally sold in the following states: CA (duh), CT, ME, MD, MA, NJ, OR, PA, RI, VT, WA. The Federal warranty is for the rest of us plebes.

Then you have short term and long term warranties. Since most states follow the Federal EPA rules, I'm going to use those.

For 2 years/24K miles from original in-service date, you have a performance warranty (basically, the car is guaranteed to pass an emissions test, or manufacturer will repair it until it does), as well as a defect warranty (if an emissions part fails, it is replaced at no cost)

For the long term warranty, only certain components are covered. Generally, this is the catalytic converter and the ECU and MIL (Check your warranty booklet to see what is covered. It has to be listed.). Those components are the ones warrantied for 8 years/80K miles.

The CARB warranty may include other components on the long term defect warranty, and the length of the short term warranties may be different, so check your warranty booklet for details.

Tom McParland > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 01/09/2014 at 09:05

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Cool thanks!

Takuro Spirit > Tom McParland 01/09/2014 at 09:14

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It IS temperature related, so you could ignore it if it doesn't plan on getting that cold again.... unless its under warranty and free then I'd say its up to you. :)

Tom McParland > Takuro Spirit 01/09/2014 at 09:19

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Well the light went off and the dealership doesn't know if it is warranty covered or not until they diagnose it...I don't want to get stuck with a charge if it is not. So I will just let it play out. Thanks for all the info...one of the many reasons Oppo is awesome, there is such a wealth of information here.

BoumboQC > CAFIFTY 01/09/2014 at 09:26

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I have a p0302 and it doesn't flash. Car misfire daily.

Apollon > Tom McParland 01/09/2014 at 09:35

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I've always thought random but disappearing faults and errors were the resort of French cars.

Good for you it's off again, may it stay this way.

Sethersm > Tom McParland 01/09/2014 at 10:08

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With the cold weather, a lot of these have been popping up. Noticed something on a co-worker's car when I was out smoking a minute ago which I'd never really considered before. He backs into parking spaces. His exhaust exits out the back of his truck. His exhaust has a nice plug of snow in it where he obviously backed it into a snowbank. Given that there isn't a corresponding snowbank behind his truck at the moment, either that snow is stuck in there really well, or he's got an upstream exhaust leak big enough to not cause issues like stalling and/or CEL. But... if you don't have a leak, I can see it causing a CEL. Presumably your exhaust should heat up enough to melt that snow and expel the plug, suddenly nothing is wrong.

JQJ213- Now With An Extra Cylinder! > Tom McParland 01/09/2014 at 10:43

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As Dirtybird52 said, you should consider picking up a bluetooth code reader... I just picked this up today... on sale for $12.59 with free shipping from a reputable store.... good reviews on it too... for $13 why not?

link

JQJ213- Now With An Extra Cylinder! > dirtybird52 01/09/2014 at 10:44

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Heck this one is on sale for $13!

I just ordered one becuase I didn't have one

link

Tom McParland > JQJ213- Now With An Extra Cylinder! 01/09/2014 at 10:45

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Yeah I may do that thanks.